Day 10: Squirrel Creek Ranch (ID)

Every day at the Divide where I left a state and was entering another was a good day. Today I would leave Montana and entering Idaho and tomorrow hopefully getting to Wyoming.

Thomas and I had an early breakfast in our motel room with the stuff from the gas station we bought yesterday. The ride into the sunrise was fantastic. The surrounding mountains and grassy hills were glowing in the light of the rising sun. Right from the start Montana’s typical up and down game began and cattle land as far as the eye could see. I saw a moose with its calf. The calf was on my side and the mom on the other side of the fenced area, both visibly nervous. I hadn’t got a clue how they will ever come together.

The gravel road traversed the Lima reservoir. Big waft of mist hung over the lake. I was totally stocked from the amazing landscape and its vastness, huge colourful cattle land framed by beautiful mountains. The ride until Lakeview and further on was a real treat. After every corner the landscape revealed another highlight. That’s it what let me forget the days strain. In Lakeview with no service I took some time for a longer break, before heading on toward Red Rock Pass at the border to Idaho. The climb was, except the final few feet, fairly flat. Welcome Idaho! I crested the pass together with Ed Turkaly. We took the mandatory pics.

Next stop would be having lunch in Island Park. But to get there the Divide started its gruelling up and down game again. Hungry and bonking for some coke’s the route left the paved road and meandered over some single trails through the forest. Nice, but I didn’t feel like playing trail games anymore. My goal was getting something to eat and a Coke as soon as possible! Therefore my sympathy for this section was incredible low.

As I finally got there, the restaurant and the grocery store at Island Park were crowded with other riders. I met Thomas who was just about to heading on. He recommended me the Pasta Alfredo and he told me that some other guys phoned ahead to the Squirrel Creek Ranch were they wanted to stay the night.

I took a seat at the restaurant and ordered Pasta Alfredo, some real carbohydrates after all the junk food of the last few days.

I heard a lot of rumours about the following section, a 30 mile old rail road track without rails but with the remaining old road bed that’s now an ATW track. Maximum possible speed: 4 to 5 mi/h with a bike. After lunch I stocked up all my groceries and moved on toward this “funny” section. The first what I saw was that the rough rail bed was replaced by smaller stone chippings about 3 up to 4 inches deep. Some parts were compacted but others not. Accomplishing this section needs two things: 1. a lot of to drink and 2. speed. I needed one ore two miles to have got the knack. Finally I rushed with more than 16 mi/h down this flat section. It was easy as long as I kept the pace, slowing down meant sinking into the deep fine gravel. After 30 miles of sliding and shaking I felt a little bit dizzy. In the distance I saw the long mountain range of the Tetons in the early evening light.

The ride to the Squirrel Ranch was accompanied by the usual up and downs that love occurring especially in the evening when getting to the final destination for the night. As it was so often the case I was one of the last riders who arrived at the Ranch. Others were already showered and having dinner.

The first thing I did was releasing my bike from the dirt of the last ten days with a house pipe. After a shower Thomas and I were able to choose between Cheeseburger with fries or fried chicken breast with fries. Unbelievable! When does American learn that calories are not the same like carbohydrates? Cooking a pot with pasta and serve it simply together with some ketchup. That’s it. As easy as possible, but very effective.   

Old rail track

Warm River