Friday, August 2, 2013

Day 25: Final destination - Antelope Wells

I was not fully convinced of getting to the border without any obstacles today. Was there something else? There was no reason for a late start, because I would like to be in Phoenix during the evening and in Las Vegas tomorrow. In addition, the last 65 miles were all paved. That’s gonna be like riding on a barbeque.
Yesterday, in the library I did a quick check of the leader board and saw that Thomas was also in Silver City. Due to my broken Smartphone we were not able to communicate unfortunately. Either he was already back from the border and waiting for his shuttle to El Paso or he would make the push also today. But this would be strange, because he was at least one day ahead of me. Definitely after my last self made breakfast I left the hotel at 3:45 am. If all goes according to plan I would getting to the border between 1:00 and 2:00 pm.
The new tires (Maxxis Crossmark) were a blast. What a difference! Not comparable to my compactor. It was more like floating or sliding over the pavement. And in addition the asphalt surface was new and as soft as a baby’s bottom.
In the dark I passed a brightly illuminated areal with huge mine dumps. It seemed to be a copper mine where trucks busy like ants were loading and dumping its load.
In continuous intervals I switched the display of my GPS on to see if I was still on the track. When I switched the display on about the 20th time the track was gone. I scrolled down and saw I missed a turn. It was right in time so I lost just 20 minutes and caused a short moment of shock to the people at home who were following me. I had this actually some days before and didn't want any repetition. The way back was all downhill and I hit the gravel road in the dawn. It was an amazing ride. Sun rise in the desert. I didn’t care about anyone who could catch me up, because with the rising sun I got some photo shots I had been looking for during the whole TD. And who cares if I will make it to place 54 or 59? During the whole TD the ranking was absolutely out of my mind. Just finishing – somehow! I never felt myself being in a competition with other riders. For me they all were good fellows in suffering. But what really cut deep was the day that I lost due to my unintended excursion toward Colorado on day 22. This day I’ll be dealing with for a longer period of time.
The landscape was very charming. Some mountains in the background and all around me cactuses were sprouting up the dry ground. I made a very good pace on this dusty road. At a junction a car came across me and I met two familiar faces. I saw them the first time in Steamboat and somewhere in between. A younger man and woman (I forgot the names). They were from the UK as far as I understood and were following some riders like James Hodges and Hamish McKee. We had a small conversation and he told me that James together with Ed were just a few miles behind me. It doesn’t matter how fast I would be riding, this cushion will vaporize anyway. Even after 25 days nothing had changed: I WAS SLOW (but happy)!
In the distance I could already see the trucks at Interstate 10 and a short time later I crossed the rail tracks just in front of the southernmost Interstate that crossed 8 states from Santa Monica in California until Jacksonville in Florida. At the “Continental Divide” Trading post I needed a bucket Coke to flush down the dust. I tunnelled the Interstate and turned immediately onto the gravelled frontage road. As I saw the first time the Exit sign with the label “Antelope Wells” I lost completely my poise. I cried my eyes out. The relief from the intensity of the last few weeks and the joy about accomplishing something incomprehensible made its way. 
As I was able to see something again I took the mandatory photo. The second time I cried as I got to the final Exit on I10 and saw the next sign. Better now, than later on at the border where everyone can see you, I thought by myself. I merely hoped not at every sign (and there were some) I would cry buckets. The last 65 miles from more than 2700 came in sight, mainly flat, but despite not a cup of cake at all, because the road was switching on its barbecue.
From time to time I looked behind me if I would see somebody else. And yes, I did. It was Ed and James rushing up from behind. They passed me by and disappeared behind the horizon within the next 15 minutes. No chance to follow them in this pace. That would kill me just within the first 5 miles.
Hachita, with no service, was the last town before the border. This jerkwater town looked like a ghost town. Scrapped houses were the only witnesses of a former better life.
Just 45 miles and since the Exit at the I10 I saw this damn mile marker again how they were mocking me. Every few miles I was looking for an excuse to stop. But due to the heat stopping wasn’t a good idea, at all. The miles were slowly counting down. I tried to keep a certain pace but after a short time I always felt off behind it. Though, there is no reward or prizing for the race one thought had always managed to drive and motivate me immensely for a few days – Spending two nights in The Venetian in Vegas. I was looking forward to this super comfy king bed and sleeping as long as I want without any rugged alarm clock in the night.
At mile seventeen a black truck came across me and was stopping. In this moment I was just about to eliminate some nuts. Somebody got out of the car. Maybe my eyes were still fogged from the crying session a short while ago, but I didn’t recognize right off the guy who came across me. I had to look twice. Finally the enlightenment - Thomas, smiling like a cat that got the cream. It was a nice welcome. I was totally surprised to see him here and not on the way to El Paso. Everybody was telling a very short version of the last few days before we went on separate ways again. He still told me that the officer from the Ride the Divide movie is on duty at the border! This casual meeting gave me the necessary motivation for the last 17 miles.
I saw this giant column of smoke toward the border station and was really concerned. With my “fortune” of the last days the station certainly blew up and I could forget the finisher photo.
The border station came in sight and I hit the one mile marker. Just one fu….. mile out of more than 2800. I guessed beside the finisher photo this last mile marker is one of the most popular photo scene here. Unbelievable, I really made it to the southern terminus of the Great Divide mountain bike route! A dream or maybe a nightmare had become true. I was really not quite sure at this moment how I should evaluate this race. But as we would say in Germany: The candy was sucked! The synonym in English, I guess: The goose was cooked!    
Ed came across me as I got to the station. He welcomed and warmly congratulated me. Immediately I recognized the officer from the movie. He congratulated me as well and handed over a finisher ice cream!
Ed was waiting for his family who did a 14 hour drive from Colorado to pick him up. James was already on the way to Phoenix. Ed was taking the MUST photos at the border sign from me.
The couple from UK was also waiting in front of the station for Hamish and J.D. However, in the meantime I stormed the vending machine inside the office for a ?? – right, a cold Coke! And a second and a third! While I was waiting for my shuttle Ed’s family arrived.
What a shame! What I really missed was a big finisher party with all riders. After the finish the riders were dispersing in all directions. But I also knew that this was not possible!
My shuttle arrived before Ed and his family left toward Colorado again. I said goodbye!
Barin, my driver handed me out a really good Mexican beer and we touched the cans. I said goodbye to the couple from UK and after we had puzzled my bike into the car we left the border. Driving back all these precious hard-earned miles in a car hurt a little bit (as well later on as I was flying over Wyoming and Montana in just a little bit more than one hour). Bringing me to Tucson airport where I could rent a car was no issue for Barin.
Just a few miles later Hamish and J.D came across. Finally J.D. had also made it with his broken frame. We exchanged just a few words and said goodbye. On the section from Hachita to the I10 we came across my old fellows Paul and Mason on their final push to the border. I was happy to see that they will make it to the border today as well. Some final words for goodbye and we were back on the road. 235 miles until Tucson. We talked a lot together, mainly about bikes, the TD and Matthew Lee who was shuttled by Barin a few times.
He dropped me off at the airport in Tucson and would only be paid for the gas. No way! I gave him almost the rest of my money and said goodbye. Thank you Barin for your support!!
That the rest of my money was very welcome later on in Vegas and my run of bad luck wasn’t over at all, ... but ... – This is another story!










2 comments:

Rob Davidson said...

Thanks for a great read! Felt like I was there - will be next year! You provided me with a few more pieces of the puzzle. Hopefully I will continue to push as you did when the going got tough... Thanks again. Rob.


Anonymous said...

Thank you Michael for your great commentary and terrific photos.

A friend of mine is just completing (in a few hours) the Tour Divide 2015. Your stories and images have been a great help for Dave's (Hoswell) family and friends, many who don't cycle, to understand the journey that is the Tour Divide.

Thanks again for sharing your thoughts and photos

Cheers,
Gary Tischer